vol.9 "Heavyweight" - ヘビーウェイト





ニッティングに必要なのは、糸の太さ、本数取り、糸の撚り方、機械の特徴、職人さんの技術etc…。内モンゴルはホワイトカシミヤの産地でありながら、同じくカシミヤ紡績、縫製技術も世界一。1年中カシミヤの糸を紡ぎ、製品を作っている彼らの感覚は他に真似出来ないと思っています。(日本で同じカシミヤ製品を作ろうとすると、原料の仕入れから機械の調整等、おそらく今の上代の2倍あたりになるかと試算します。そもそも同じクオリティを日本で作れるかどうか。)太番手をさらに撚ってゲージの細かい機械で編んでさらに詰めて、厳しい条件が揃い追求して生まれたアイテムが” Heavyweight”シリーズです。限界まで詰めたカシミヤの肉感に、きめ細やかな表面、ヴィンテージ特有の長く締め付けの強いリブetc…今までに見たことのない、全く新しいカシミヤアイテム。気づいてみたら、最初の約1年間は素材を作るだけで終わっていました。笑 つづく。


BODHI / Satoshi Mizutani



I have always loved items and shapes that can be called "perfection," and I am attracted to the "best or nothing" designs of BRAUN, Mercedes-Benz in the 90's, the standard chairs of Prouvé, and so on. In this ever-changing world, I am attracted to things that continue to be needed, with their unchanging splendor and sense of security. Likewise, cashmere is a perfect material. There is a reason why it has existed with the same value since the 1400s. How to arrange the ultimate material that can never be changed by anything else?

If it were something that could be used every day because it is high-class, you would wear it all the time without getting tired of it. I am the type of person who wants to quietly nurture good quality items from scratch, so items that are too luxurious, unusual, or eccentric don't really fit my skin.... The item I chose was a sweatshirt that I have always loved. At first glance, it looks like just a sweatshirt, but BODHI's sweatshirts are made by knitting. It is repairable for small tears and fraying, and is easy to maintain because the color does not fade.

Knitting requires a variety of factors, including the thickness of the yarn, the number of knots, the twisting method of the yarn, the characteristics of the machine, and the skill of the craftsman. I believe that no one else can imitate their sense of spinning cashmere yarns and making cashmere products all year round. (If we tried to make the same cashmere products in Japan, it would probably cost twice the current price, from purchasing the raw materials to adjusting the machines...) (I am not sure if the same quality can be produced in Japan to begin with.) The "Heavyweight" series is an item that was born from the pursuit of a variety of strict conditions. The cashmere is stuffed to the limit, the surface is fine, and the ribs are long and tight, which is characteristic of vintage cashmere... This is a completely new cashmere item that has never been seen before. I realized that I spent the first year just making the material. Continue to the next page.

BODHI / Satoshi Mizutani



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